The fate of any house literally rests on its foundation. From design and excavation issues to formwork, reinforcement, drainage, and waterproofing details, this handy guide covers the full range of residential concrete work. Author Rick Arnold, a foundation contractor and coauthor of Precision Framing, walks the reader through all the steps. Also included are chapters on foundations built from materials other than concrete (blocks, ICFs, wood) and on flatwork (slabs, walkways, patios). These clear instructions for building a concrete foundation are accompanied by over 200 color photos and dozens of color illustrations.

comprehensive book on concrete - just what I was looking for before building my own house.

Minimal coverage of additives, finishing, and concrete mix variations. Good coverage
of form building and setting. Not as complete as the title implies; really another formwork book.

Covered many areas and ideas that were new to me (like rebar chairs and footing brackets), but I wish more coverage had been shown on dealing with hydronic tubing in slabs. Even the hydronic books lack specificity on how to maintain tubing at uniform location in slab so as not to be too deep, yet not so close to surface to prevent damage by saw-cut control joints. Would have also like to have seen more discussion on powered trowels for flatwork, and finishing stairs so as not to see formwork impressions on riser (says to leave formwork on for several days, but that means no texturing options for the risers.)

It gave a lot of great information for bigger jobs with concrete. We were initially looking for something on a much smaller scale, but we are going to be doing our driveway soon, and this book had much needed information on how to do it yourself.

This is the better book on pouring concrete forms that Taunton Press offers.
When I bought the book I was a complete novice. Now after 1 1/2 years and several large projects I am starting to learn what is missing. The book does not talk about the design of the forms. For example concrete exerts 150lb/sqft for ever foot of height. At the bottom of a 2ft wall the pressure is 300lbs but at the bottom of a 8ft wall the pressure is 1200lb/sqft. The plywood, 2x4 bracing, and ties need to be set for the height of a wall.
You can lessen the number of ties in a wall by using stronger ties but then you have to make sure the grid spacing of the 2x4's will support the plywood.
The pressure on the plywood can also lessened if the pour is slowed down or done in two stages but if it is a small job that will take less than a hour to do the forms will get the full pressure.
With the first form sys I rented there was nothing telling me how much pressure the forms would take. Trying to save some money I set everything up with ties on a 4'x 2' grid pattern this is O.K for say a 3ft wall but (lucky for me the guy that was going to pump the concrete told me)not strong enough for a 7ft wall.
There are many different types of form sys if the one that is shown in the book is not available in your area you will need to do more research.
If you are using a small inline pumper truck you need to order the concrete with small rock.
Bracing the wall is also very important you are dealing with tons of weight so make sure the bracing holding the wall vertical/straight is done well.

Forms are also called Falsework.

With rebar in the form it is just about impossible to spray the form release on without getting it on the re-bar. It is better to spray the form boards before setting them up or ...
Make sure you strip the forms 1 - 2 days after the pour then you don't need form release. Any spilt concrete be easy to break up.

Added Dec. 10 2007

Rent a concrete vibrator and hit the sides of the forms with a hammer to get rid of the air. Don't over vibrate the concrete or you will make big air bubbles.

For form stripping buy a 5ft wrecking bar with a 90 degree end not a crow bar with a hook. The 5ft bar cut the stripping time in half.

Hitachi makes a rebar bender/cutter I have rented several times it is great tool.